Bánh cuốn: steamed rice rolls

Bánh cuốn are thin, silky sheets of steamed rice batter rolled around a filling of seasoned ground pork and wood ear mushrooms, then topped with crispy fried shallots and served with herbs, Vietnamese pork sausage and a light dipping sauce. The dish is especially associated with Northern Vietnam and Hà Nội, where it's a classic breakfast.

The name is simple: bánh covers many rice- and flour-based foods, and cuốn means rolled.

How bánh cuốn is traditionally made

At stalls, cooks stretch a cloth over a pot of boiling water, ladle a thin layer of batter onto it, cover it for a few seconds, then lift the delicate sheet off with a bamboo stick. It takes real skill and speed.

At home, a nonstick pan works surprisingly well. The sheets are a little thicker, but the texture is still soft and slippery.

Regional versions

• Hà Nội style: thin sheets, pork and wood ear filling, with chả lụa (pork sausage) and a lightly sweet fish sauce dip.
• Bánh cuốn Thanh Trì: from an area near Hà Nội, known for very thin, plain sheets with no filling, topped with shallots.
• Southern versions may come with bean sprouts, herbs and sometimes slices of fried shrimp cake.

A few traditional Hà Nội vendors add a drop of cà cuống, a pungent essence from a giant water bug, to the dipping sauce. It's rare and expensive, and you don't need it.

Ingredients (makes about 20 rolls, serves 4)

For the batter:

• 1 cup (160 g) rice flour (not glutinous)
• ¼ cup (30 g) tapioca starch
• 2½ cups (600 ml) water
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil, plus more for the pan

For the filling:

• 8 oz (225 g) ground pork
• ⅓ cup dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked 20 minutes and finely chopped
• 2 shallots, minced
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• ¼ teaspoon black pepper

To serve:

• ½ cup fried shallots
• Sliced chả lụa (Vietnamese pork sausage)
• Mint, cilantro, Thai basil and bean sprouts
• Nước chấm, thinned slightly with water

Allergens: fish sauce (fish) in the filling and dip. Chả lụa usually contains fish sauce. Check fried shallot labels for wheat if gluten matters.

Steps

1. Make the batter. Whisk the rice flour, tapioca starch, salt, oil and water until smooth. Let it rest at least 30 minutes, or up to a few hours in the fridge. It should be very thin, like skim milk.

1. Cook the filling. Heat a little oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté the shallots for 1 minute, add the pork and cook, breaking it up, until no longer pink. Stir in the wood ear, fish sauce, sugar and pepper. Cook 2 more minutes and set aside.

1. Heat the pan. Use an 8- to 10-inch (20 to 25 cm) nonstick pan over medium heat. Brush lightly with oil.

1. Pour a thin sheet. Stir the batter (the starch settles). Pour about 3 tablespoons into the pan and swirl quickly to coat the bottom in a thin layer.

1. Steam with a lid. Cover immediately and cook 30 to 60 seconds, until the sheet turns translucent and small bubbles appear. Don't flip it.

1. Fill and roll. Turn the sheet out onto an oiled plate or cutting board. Put a spoonful of filling along one edge and roll it up loosely. Move to a serving plate.

1. Repeat. Stir the batter each time and lightly re-oil the pan every few sheets.

1. Serve. Top with fried shallots, add chả lụa slices and herbs, and serve with the dipping sauce.

Troubleshooting

• Sheets tear: the batter may be too thin or the pan too hot. Add a spoon of tapioca starch or lower the heat.
• Sheets are thick and gummy: use less batter and swirl faster.
• Sticking: re-oil the pan and the work surface. A silicone spatula helps.

Making it a meal

Bánh cuốn makes a light breakfast or lunch. For a fuller spread, serve it alongside xôi or a few other Northern dishes like bún chả. Leftover rolls don't keep well, so cook only what you'll eat.

Rest the batter and stir it before every sheet; that one habit fixes most bánh cuốn problems.