Fried Vietnamese spring rolls (chả giò)

Fried Vietnamese spring rolls, called chả giò in the South and nem rán in the North, are slim rolls of seasoned pork, vegetables and glass noodles, fried until deeply golden and crisp. Serve them hot with lettuce, herbs and nước chấm for wrapping and dipping.

Allergens: this recipe uses fish sauce and egg, and the optional shrimp is shellfish. Wheat wrappers contain gluten.

Which wrapper should you use?

You have two good choices:

• Rice paper: the traditional Southern choice. It fries into a blistered, bubbly, extra-crunchy shell. It can stick together and splatter, so it takes a little care.
• Wheat spring roll wrappers (sold frozen, often labeled "spring roll pastry"): easier for beginners, smoother and flaky. Not gluten free.

Both are delicious. If it's your first time, wheat wrappers are more forgiving.

Ingredients (makes about 24 small rolls)

Filling

• 1 lb (450 g) ground pork, not too lean
• 4 oz (115 g) raw shrimp, peeled and finely chopped (optional)
• 1 cup (about 120 g) finely shredded taro or jicama
• 1 medium carrot, finely shredded
• 1 oz (30 g) dried glass noodles (miến), soaked 10 minutes, drained and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
• 2 tablespoons dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked 15 minutes and finely chopped
• 2 shallots, minced

Seasoning and binder

• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Wrapping and frying

• 24 small rice paper sheets or wheat spring roll wrappers
• A bowl of warm water (for rice paper) or a little beaten egg (for wheat wrappers)
• Neutral oil for frying, enough for about 1.5 inches (4 cm) in the pan

To serve

• Lettuce leaves, mint, perilla and other herbs
• Nước chấm, below

How to make the filling

• 1. Squeeze the vegetables. Put the shredded taro or jicama and carrot in a clean towel and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Wet filling makes soggy, splattering rolls.
• 2. Mix. In a large bowl combine the pork, shrimp if using, vegetables, noodles, mushrooms, shallots, egg, fish sauce, sugar and pepper. Mix with your hands or a spoon until it holds together.
• 3. Test the seasoning. Fry or microwave a teaspoon of filling until cooked, taste, and adjust the fish sauce or pepper.

How to roll chả giò

• 1. Prepare the wrapper. For rice paper, dip a sheet in warm water for 1 to 2 seconds and lay it flat. For wheat wrappers, lay one on the board with a corner pointing toward you.
• 2. Add the filling. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling near the bottom edge and shape it into a log about 3 inches (7.5 cm) long.
• 3. Roll tightly. Fold the bottom over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up firmly. Air pockets cause bursting. Seal wheat wrappers with a dab of egg.
• 4. Keep them apart. Set finished rolls on a tray without touching. Rice paper rolls stick to each other if they're crowded.

How to fry them

• 1. Heat the oil in a heavy pot or deep skillet to about 325°F (160°C). A thermometer helps a lot here.
• 2. Fry in small batches, turning occasionally, for about 8 to 12 minutes, until golden brown and the pork is cooked through. Rice paper rolls take longer than wheat ones.
• 3. For extra crunch, fry twice. Fry first until pale golden, drain and cool for 10 minutes, then fry again at about 350°F (175°C) for 2 to 3 minutes.
• 4. Drain on a rack set over a tray. A rack keeps the bottoms crisp better than paper towels.

Cut one open to check: the filling should be cooked all the way through with no pink. Never leave hot oil unattended, and keep a lid nearby.

Quick nước chấm

Stir together 3 tablespoons fish sauce, 3 tablespoons sugar, 3 tablespoons lime juice and 1/2 cup (120 ml) warm water until the sugar dissolves. Add a minced garlic clove and sliced chili. Taste and adjust; it should be balanced between salty, sweet and sour. There's a fuller guide in nước chấm: the Vietnamese dipping sauce.

How to eat chả giò

The usual way is to wrap a roll in a lettuce leaf with a few herbs, then dip it in nước chấm. The cool lettuce and the hot, crunchy roll are the whole point. Chả giò are also sliced over rice vermicelli with herbs and pickles for bún chả giò.

Make-ahead and reheating

• Freeze uncooked rolls on a tray, then bag them. Fry from frozen at a slightly lower temperature, adding a few minutes.
• Reheat fried rolls in a 375°F (190°C) oven or an air fryer for a few minutes. The microwave makes them soft.

Can you air-fry them?

You can. Brush or spray the rolls with oil and air-fry at about 375°F (190°C), turning halfway, until golden and cooked through. Wheat wrappers work better than rice paper in an air fryer. The texture is a bit drier than deep-frying, but still good.

Not sure whether you want fried or fresh? Vietnamese fresh spring rolls vs fried spring rolls compares them, and the fresh version is in how to make gỏi cuốn.

Squeeze the vegetables hard before mixing. It's the step most people skip and the one that matters most for crisp rolls.