Vegetarian pho (phở chay) that still tastes deep

To make vegetarian pho that still tastes deep, build the broth from charred onion and ginger, dried shiitake mushrooms, daikon, carrots and toasted pho spices, then season it with soy sauce and a little sugar. Top rice noodles with fried tofu and mushrooms, and finish with the usual herbs and lime.

Phở chay has a real place in Vietnamese food. Vegetarian cooking (đồ chay) is closely linked with Buddhism in Vietnam, and many people eat vegetarian on certain days, such as the first and fifteenth of the lunar month. Vegetarian restaurants across the country serve phở chay alongside other meat-free dishes.

Where does the depth come from?

Beef pho gets its body from bones. Without them, you need other ways to build savory flavor:

• Charred aromatics add sweetness and a light smoky note.
• Dried shiitake mushrooms bring savory, meaty depth.
• Daikon, carrot and onion add natural sweetness.
• Toasted spices provide the signature pho aroma.
• Soy sauce seasons and adds savory color.

Ingredients (serves 4)

For the broth:

• 2 large onions, unpeeled, halved
• 1 piece of ginger, about 4 in (10 cm), unpeeled
• 10 to 12 dried shiitake mushrooms
• 1 medium daikon, about 1 lb (450 g), peeled and cut into large chunks
• 2 carrots, cut into large chunks
• 1 apple or Asian pear, quartered (optional, for sweetness)
• 3 quarts (about 2.8 liters) water

For the spices and seasoning:

• Spices: 4 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 black cardamom pod (optional)
• 3 to 4 tbsp light soy sauce, plus more to taste
• 1 tbsp rock sugar or regular sugar
• Salt to taste

For the bowls:

• 12 to 14 oz (340 to 400 g) dried flat rice noodles
• 14 oz (400 g) firm tofu, pressed and cubed
• 8 oz (225 g) fresh mushrooms, such as oyster, shiitake or king oyster, sliced
• 2 tbsp neutral oil
• Scallions, cilantro and thinly sliced onion
• Side plate: Thai basil, bean sprouts, lime wedges and chilies
• Hoisin and sriracha, optional

Allergen note: soy sauce and tofu contain soy, and many soy sauces and hoisin sauces contain wheat. Use tamari or a certified gluten-free soy sauce if needed. Check that your hoisin is fish-free if you want the dish fully vegetarian.

Steps

1. Soak the mushrooms. Cover the dried shiitake with 2 cups (480 ml) of warm water and soak for at least 30 minutes. Keep the soaking liquid; it is full of flavor.

1. Char the onion and ginger. Blacken them over a gas flame, under a broiler or in a dry cast-iron pan, about 10 minutes. Rinse off loose char and slice the ginger.

1. Toast the spices in a dry skillet over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant, then tie them in a spice bag.

1. Build the broth. In a large pot, combine the water, charred onion and ginger, soaked shiitake and their strained soaking liquid, daikon, carrots and apple or pear if using. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer.

1. Simmer. Cook uncovered for about 1½ hours. Add the spice bag for the last 45 minutes, and remove it when the aroma is strong but not harsh.

1. Strain and season. Strain the broth, keeping the shiitake to slice for topping if you like. Add soy sauce, sugar and salt little by little, tasting as you go.

1. Cook the toppings. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the tofu until golden on several sides, about 8 to 10 minutes, then set aside. Sauté the fresh mushrooms until browned, about 5 minutes, with a pinch of salt.

1. Cook the noodles according to the package, then drain and divide among bowls.

1. Assemble. Top the noodles with tofu, mushrooms and the sliced shiitake. Add scallions, cilantro and onion, then ladle very hot broth over everything. Serve with the side plate.

Tips for more depth

• Don't skip the char. It's where much of the flavor comes from.
• Roast the vegetables for 20 to 30 minutes before simmering for an even deeper broth.
• Add a piece of kombu for extra savory flavor, removing it before the broth boils hard.
• Season gradually. Soy sauce is strong, and it's easy to overdo.

Is phở chay vegan?

This version is vegan as long as your sauces are free of fish and other animal products. Some restaurant versions use egg noodles, fish sauce or bouillon, so ask if you're ordering out.

Storage

The broth keeps in the fridge for 4 to 5 days and freezes for about 3 months. Store tofu, noodles and broth separately.

For more pho technique, see pho broth: how to get a clear, deep broth, and for lighter eating tips, is pho healthy?.

Make the broth a day ahead if you can, because the flavors deepen overnight in the fridge.