Vietnamese fashion trends: from áo dài to streetwear

Vietnamese fashion today ranges from the áo dài, the long tunic worn over trousers that's become a national symbol, to a fast-growing streetwear scene led by young local designers. Traditional pieces are still worn for Tết, weddings, school and formal events, while everyday style in cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City mixes global trends with Vietnamese details.

Here's a guide to the classics and to how they're being remixed.

The áo dài

The áo dài (say "ow zai" in the North, "ow yai" in the South) is a long, fitted tunic with high side slits, worn over loose trousers. It's worn by women most often, though men's versions exist and are worn at weddings, Tết and ceremonies.

The modern, closely fitted form developed in the 20th century; designers in Hanoi in the 1930s helped shape it into the silhouette people recognize today. Since then it's been reinterpreted many times, with changes in collar, sleeve, length and fabric.

You'll see áo dài as school uniforms in some high schools, as work uniforms in places like hotels and airlines, and as festive wear. Our full guide is the áo dài: Vietnam's national dress.

Other traditional clothing

• Áo bà ba: A simple, loose blouse with trousers, associated with the South and the Mekong Delta. Comfortable and practical for hot weather.
• Áo tứ thân: A "four-part" dress associated with the North, often worn for folk performances and festivals.
• Áo yếm: A traditional bodice worn under other garments, now often seen in photo shoots and stylized fashion.
• Khăn đóng / khăn vấn: Traditional headwear, often paired with formal áo dài.
• Nón lá: The conical palm-leaf hat, practical for sun and rain. See the nón lá.

How the áo dài is being remixed

Designers keep finding new ways to wear it:

• Shorter cuts that end at the knee, easier to wear daily.
• Áo dài with jeans or skirts instead of matching trousers.
• Modern prints, from graphic patterns to pop-art motifs.
• Relaxed fits that are looser and more comfortable than the classic tailored form.
• Áo dài cách tân, a broad term for "reformed" or modernized áo dài, used for many updated styles.

Opinions differ. Some people love the creativity; others prefer the classic form for formal occasions. Both views are common.

Vietnam's streetwear scene

Vietnam has a large garment manufacturing industry, and many international brands produce clothing there. Alongside that, a generation of local designers and small brands has grown, especially in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, selling online and through pop-up shops.

Common themes in Vietnamese streetwear:

• Oversized tees and hoodies with Vietnamese text, often with full diacritics as part of the design.
• Local references, like street food, motorbikes, Tết symbols or old-school signage.
• Retro nostalgia for the 1990s and earlier.
• Hot-weather practicality, with lightweight fabrics.

Social media plays a big role. Trends move quickly on TikTok and Instagram, and young buyers often discover brands there. See Vietnamese TikTok trends explained.

Practical style in daily life

Much of Vietnam is hot and humid, and many people get around by motorbike. That shapes what people actually wear: sun protection is big, including long sleeves, jackets, gloves and wide hats, worn to avoid sun and dust. Masks are common on motorbikes. In the North, winters can be genuinely cold, so coats and scarves come out.

Dressing for special occasions

• Tết: Many families wear áo dài, especially for photos and visiting relatives. Red and bright colors are popular.
• Weddings: Brides often wear a red or colorful áo dài for the traditional ceremony, and a Western-style gown for the reception.
• Funerals: White is the traditional mourning color, though dark clothing is also common.
• Temples and pagodas: Cover shoulders and knees.

Wearing the áo dài as a visitor

Non-Vietnamese visitors often wonder whether wearing an áo dài is okay. Many Vietnamese people are pleased to see visitors wear it respectfully, such as when it's tailored properly for an occasion. Avoid treating it as a costume or a joke. If you're invited to a wedding or Tết event, asking the host is the best approach.

If you'd like to try an áo dài, have one tailored or fitted properly; a good fit is the difference between a costume and the real thing.