Vietnamese salt coffee: the Huế drink explained

Vietnamese salt coffee, cà phê muối, is strong phin coffee sweetened with condensed milk and topped with a layer of lightly salted cream foam. The pinch of salt softens bitterness and makes the sweetness taste rounder, a bit like salted caramel. It's closely associated with Huế, the former imperial capital in central Vietnam.

It sounds odd until you try the idea. Salt and sweet together is a familiar pairing, from salted caramel to chocolate with sea salt.

What does "cà phê muối" mean?

• cà phê: coffee
• muối: salt

Pronunciation: "kah feh moo-oy", with muối taking the rising (sắc) tone so the end of the word jumps up.

Why is it linked to Huế?

Salt coffee is widely described as a Huế specialty, and cafés there made it famous before it spread to Hanoi, Saigon and Vietnamese cafés abroad. Huế has its own distinct food culture, known for bold flavors and dishes like bún bò Huế, so a creative coffee from the city fits its reputation. Exact origin stories vary, so it's best to think of it as "the Huế drink" rather than credit one specific inventor.

Why does salt work in coffee?

A small amount of salt can make bitter flavors seem less bitter and sweet flavors seem more balanced. That's why some people add a pinch of salt to coffee grounds at home. In cà phê muối, the salt sits in the creamy topping, so each sip starts salty-creamy and ends with sweet, strong coffee underneath.

The key word is small. Salt coffee should taste gently savory, not like seawater.

Ingredients for one cup

Coffee

• 2 tablespoons (about 15 g) dark-roast ground coffee
• About 1/2 cup (120 ml) hot water
• 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons (15 to 25 ml) sweetened condensed milk

Salted cream

• 1/4 cup (60 ml) heavy whipping cream, cold
• 1 teaspoon sweetened condensed milk (optional, for sweetness)
• A small pinch of fine salt, about 1/8 teaspoon (less than 1 g), plus more to taste

Allergen note: contains dairy. For a dairy-free version, use a whippable coconut cream and sweetened condensed coconut milk.

Steps

1. Brew the coffee. Put the condensed milk in a cup. Brew the coffee through a phin directly onto it, about 4 to 5 minutes. Stir well. If you need help, see how to use a phin filter.

2. Make the salted cream. In a small bowl or jar, combine the cold cream, condensed milk (if using) and salt. Whisk, froth with a handheld frother, or shake in a sealed jar until it thickens to a soft, pourable foam. It should be thick but still flow off a spoon.

3. Taste the cream. It should taste lightly salty and slightly sweet. Add a few more grains of salt only if you can't taste it at all.

4. Assemble. Gently spoon or pour the salted cream over the coffee so it floats in a layer.

5. Serve. Drink without stirring for the layered effect, or stir for an even, creamy coffee.

Iced salt coffee

Make the coffee and condensed milk mixture as above, stir, and pour over a glass of ice. Top with the salted cream. The cold makes the cream sit up nicely, which is how it's often served in hot weather.

Tips

• Under-salt at first. You can always add more, and too much salt ruins the drink.
• Use fine salt. Coarse salt doesn't dissolve evenly in cold cream.
• Keep the cream cold. Warm cream won't thicken.
• Don't whip to stiff peaks. A soft, flowing foam floats better and blends into each sip.

How it compares with egg coffee and coconut coffee

All three are "topped" Vietnamese coffees:

• Egg coffee: rich, custardy egg yolk foam, from Hanoi.
• Coconut coffee: icy, blended coconut cream, sweet and tropical.
• Salt coffee: light salted cream, the most balanced and least dessert-like of the three.

If you find regular Vietnamese milk coffee too sweet, salt coffee is a good one to try next.

Is salt coffee healthy?

It's a treat, like any sweetened coffee drink. The amount of salt is small, but the cream and condensed milk add saturated fat and sugar. If you're watching sodium, sugar or fat for health reasons, a doctor or dietitian can help you decide how it fits into your diet.

Start with a tiny pinch of salt in the cream, taste, and adjust; it's the whole trick.