Đồ chua: Vietnamese pickled carrot and daikon

Đồ chua is a quick Vietnamese pickle made from carrot and daikon radish in a sweet-sour vinegar brine. You can make it in about 20 minutes of hands-on time, and it is ready to eat within an hour, though it tastes best after a day in the fridge.

The name means "sour things" (đồ is "things," chua is "sour"), and it is pronounced roughly "doh chew-ah." It is the crunchy, tangy layer in bánh mì and the bright side note on many rice and noodle plates.

What is đồ chua used for?

• Bánh mì, where it cuts through rich pâté and grilled meat. See bánh mì fillings, from classic to modern.
• Bún bowls, such as grilled pork with vermicelli.
• Broken rice plates (cơm tấm) as a fresh, sharp side.
• Dipping sauce, where a spoonful of shredded pickle is often added to nước chấm.

Ingredients

Makes about one 1-quart (1-liter) jar.

• 1 large carrot, about 8 oz (225 g)
• 1 medium daikon radish, about 8 oz (225 g)
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus 2 teaspoons sugar for the first toss
• 1 cup (240 ml) distilled white vinegar
• 1 cup (240 ml) warm water
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup (65 to 100 g) sugar, to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon salt for the brine

The ratio of equal parts vinegar and water is a good starting point. More sugar makes it sweeter and rounder; less makes it sharper.

Equipment

• A clean glass jar with a lid
• A sharp knife, mandoline or julienne peeler
• A mixing bowl

Steps

1. Cut the vegetables. Peel the carrot and daikon. Cut them into matchsticks about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick and 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7 cm) long. For bánh mì, matchsticks are classic. For a side dish, you can also cut thin coins or decorative shapes.

1. Salt and sugar them. Put the vegetables in a bowl, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 2 teaspoons sugar, and toss with your hands. Let them sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then massage gently. They will release water and turn bendy. A matchstick that folds without snapping is ready.

1. Rinse and drain. Rinse the vegetables quickly in cold water to remove excess salt, then drain well and press out as much water as you can. This step keeps the pickle crunchy rather than soggy.

1. Make the brine. Stir the sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt into the warm water until dissolved, then add the vinegar. Taste it. It should be sharp, sweet and only lightly salty.

1. Jar it. Pack the vegetables into the jar and pour the brine over until they are fully covered. Close the lid.

1. Wait. Leave the jar at room temperature for about 1 hour, then refrigerate. It is good to eat after an hour and at its best after a day.

How long does it keep?

Stored in the fridge with the vegetables fully under the brine, đồ chua generally keeps for a few weeks. It slowly softens and gets more sour over time. Always use a clean utensil to take some out, and discard it if it smells off, looks slimy or shows mold.

Why does it smell so strong when I open the jar?

Daikon naturally gives off a sulfur-like smell as it sits, and opening the jar can release a surprisingly strong whiff. That is normal for pickled daikon and does not mean it has spoiled. Let the jar breathe for a moment before you judge it.

Tips for the best texture and flavor

• Do not skip the salt-massage step. It is what lets the pickle stay crisp but flexible.
• Cut evenly. Thin, even pieces pickle at the same rate.
• Adjust the carrot-to-daikon ratio. Some people like more carrot for color and sweetness; others like more daikon for bite.
• Make a small test batch first if you are dialing in your preferred sweetness.

Variations

• Carrot only: quicker, sweeter and less pungent.
• With cucumber: add cucumber at serving time rather than in the jar, since it softens fast.
• Spicy: drop a sliced fresh chili into the jar.

Is đồ chua vegan and allergy-friendly?

As written, this recipe is vegan and free of the common allergens, with no fish sauce, peanuts or shellfish. Keep in mind that dishes it is served with, such as bánh mì and nước chấm, often contain fish sauce, gluten or eggs.

To see it in its most famous role, read what bánh mì is.

Make the jar a day before you need it; the extra night in the fridge is the easiest way to get the best flavor.